Step 1Thickly slice the garlic, then place in a mortar and pound it to rough paste. Add a pinch of salt and pound until smooth, then add the oregano, oil and black pepper or dried chili, pounding lightly as you stir them in with the pestle. Cover and store at room temperature.
Step 2Just before using, add the simmering water, squeeze in the lemon juice, whisk and taste. The sauce should not be tart; the lemon should contribute perfume more than acidity, and the water should tame all sourness to better reveal the fruit of the lemon and scent of the other aromatics.
Step 3Spoon the warm salsa over cooked meat, fish or vegetables.
Step 1Cut out the backbones of the quail and discard. Wash and pat dry.
Step 2Brush the skin side of each quail with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Heat the broiler.
Step 3Place the quail on a rack over a baking sheet. Broil 6 inches from the heat for 7 to 10 minutes skin side up. Remove the quail from the oven and place in a glass baking dish.
Step 4Pour the salmorigano over to cover. Let stand for 30 minutes. Serve.