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Buttermilk fried chicken

Time 55 minutes
Yields Serves 4 to 6
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Southern fried chicken, coleslaw, biscuits and ham, brownies -- it’s the iconic July 4th picnic, so popular (once upon a time) that it became a cliche of the culture, pictured in classic cartoons, nostalgic children’s books -- and, of course, in ads for takeout versions of these all-American dishes.

But don’t relegate this menu of deeply delicious, eminently packable and wonderfully satisfying foods to history. A few smart cooking techniques and updated ingredients can bring the joys of a homemade picnic back to the holiday -- and out to the beach, park or mountainside.

The beautifully puffed-up golden brown crust of the double-dipped fried chicken is made with buttermilk. It’s so special that our recipe calls for cutting the chicken into 12 pieces rather than the usual six or eight. Not only is it easier to evenly fry the smaller pieces, they’re also more finger-friendly and there’s crisp crust in each bite.

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Made ahead of time

Soaking the pieces overnight in brine makes them juicy and tender when fried. And, of course, the whole process, from brining to frying, can be accomplished ahead of time so when it’s time to party you can simply pack your picnic and head out the door.

Bring along lemon wedges and hot sauce, so each picnicker can add a quick squeeze of brightness and a drizzle of spice.

Times readers so love making coleslaw that the Food section often receives requests for recipes. All styles -- sweet and creamy, crisp and spicy, nutty and tangy -- have their fans.

So this recipe has been designed as a flexible master version with variations. Three kinds of cabbage -- red and green for body and color, savoy for a light surprise and contrast -- along with chopped onion and cilantro form the slaw. You decide, by selecting dressing add-ins, whether to make your slaw a California-herbal version with fresh tarragon, a nutty Asian-inspired style with toasted sesame seeds, or one spiced with celery and mustard seeds.

Feeding a crowd? Order a country ham online and bring along some biscuits. Presto! Impromptu sandwiches (yes, of course you’ll want to put coleslaw on that ham slice) are on hand throughout the afternoon’s softball game.

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Rich and citrusy

The combination of orange and chocolate in our “midnight chocolate” (that’s how dark they are) brownies is not only festive but also, as befits a historic commemoration like the Fourth, a reminder of our region’s past, when H.L. Mencken observed, “The whole place stank of orange blossoms.”

Sweet citrusy notes from orange liqueur and peel sparkle in the deliciously dense combination of bittersweet chocolate, dark cocoa and mini dark-chocolate chips.

Line the pan with foil so the brownies can be easily lifted out and cut them into the smaller bite-sized portions so many people appreciate these days. You’ll get 25 instead of a dozen -- enough to carry you through to fireworks time.

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1

Place the chicken on a cutting board with the back facing up. Using a sturdy pair of kitchen shears, remove the backbone from the body. Halve the chicken lengthwise with a sturdy chef’s knife, cutting through the sternum. Remove the thighs and drumsticks at the joints, as well as the wings. Cut each breast crosswise into thirds. You will have 12 pieces, not including the back (the back can be discarded or prepared with the rest of the chicken). Set aside.

2

In a large resealable plastic bag, or in a large nonreactive container, combine the salt with 2 quarts water, stirring until the salt is dissolved. Stir in the garlic, thyme and rosemary, then add the chicken pieces, making sure they are completely submerged. Seal the bag or cover the container tightly, and refrigerate overnight.

3

Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Place the buttermilk in a medium bowl. In a large, shallow baking dish, combine the flour, cayenne pepper and Hungarian paprika.

4

Dip the chicken, one piece at a time, in the buttermilk. Shake off the excess buttermilk and dredge in the flour mixture, coating the piece completely. Repeat once more with the buttermilk and flour for a double coating of batter. Repeat with all of the pieces, placing the dredged pieces on a wire rack. Allow to stand at room temperature for 1 hour to dry completely.

5

Heat one-half inch of oil in a large, heavy-bottom skillet over medium-high heat until a thermometer inserted reads 325 degrees. Fry the chicken, a few pieces at a time, until they are a rich, golden brown on each side, about 15 minutes total. The meat should be firm; a thermometer inserted should read 160 degrees. Remove the fried chicken to a paper-towel-lined pan or plate.

6

If not serving immediately, allow the chicken to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until cold. Pack in an air-tight container before transporting.

From test kitchen director Donna Deane. Serve the chicken with lemon wedges and a drizzle of hot sauce.