Creamy mushroom ragout over sweet potato cakes
Years ago, when I was in college in upstate New York and couldn’t return home to Texas for the holidays, I attended a Thanksgiving potluck at a schoolmate’s house. Thanks in great part to my lack of planning, I single-handedly ruined the meal.
At the time, those seated around the table were too kind to point fingers. But I’d been asked to bring the potatoes, and my naive contribution -- mashed potatoes in a household of sweet potato devotees -- left a palpable sadness in the air.
I sometimes imagine that family gathered in subsequent years, whispering to one another as they passed that year’s bounty back and forth. “Remember that terrible Thanksgiving when we didn’t have sweet potatoes at all?” They should never have trusted a newcomer with such a crucial mission.
In hindsight, I should’ve discussed my dish with the host beforehand. Had I done so, I would’ve brought both types of potatoes -- there’s no Thanksgiving without mashed potatoes where I come from.
Now I know to do my research. Being a gracious and memorable Thanksgiving potluck guest requires just two things: Bring a showstopper of a dish and stay out from under the host’s feet.
When picking a dish to bring, imagine foods that fill a niche or have an air of surprise. Another stuffing is always well-received, for instance, so a warm barley and kale salad with roasted pears and candied prosciutto might be a welcome alternative to another bread-based filling.
A side dish hearty enough to double as a vegetarian entree hits the mark, too -- think sweet potato cakes topped with a creamy, sage-scented mushroom ragout. That is, unless you’re asked to bring a specific dish, in which case you’ll do best to respect the host’s wishes.
Low-maintenance dishes served at room temperature, like a savory pissaladiere with radicchio and spiced ricotta, or food you can reheat in its serving vessel in the microwave are perfect potluck choices.
If, on the other hand, your dish requires refrigerator or oven space at your host’s home, or even more so a burner on the stove or countertop space, arrange those details ahead of time. Chances are your host is preparing the regal bird and will have his or her hands -- and oven -- occupied when you arrive.
Equally important at a Thanksgiving potluck -- as important a potluck as ever there was -- are logistics, so keep in mind the distance you’ll be traveling. Choose a dish that’s not particularly fragile and that doesn’t have too many moving parts. To that end, preparing a dessert like, say, delicate meringues with three garnishes would be risky.
This year, I’m celebrating two Thanksgiving dinners with family, both of them potlucks. I’m still mulling over my options. One thing’s for sure, though. I’ll not be bringing the potatoes.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Arrange the sweet potatoes on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast, turning occasionally, until soft, about 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the peels and mash the potato flesh in a large bowl until just chunky. Stir in the bread crumbs, walnuts, sugar, mace, egg, three-fourths teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon pepper until thoroughly combined.
Place the flour in a wide, shallow dish. Using floured hands, form sweet potato mixture into 12 3-inch patties. (Each patty will use a scant one-third cup of the sweet potato mixture. Make smaller patties, if you like.) Coat each in flour, shaking off any excess, and transfer to a baking sheet. Heat one-fourth cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the patties, turning once, until deep golden brown all over, 8 to 9 minutes total. Transfer the fried patties to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Add additional oil, as needed, to the pan so the patties do not stick as they fry. Set aside when done.
Clean out and return the skillet to stove. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat then add the shallots with one-fourth teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and 1 tablespoon of the sage and cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms have softened to tenderness and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Add the cream and simmer, stirring often, until just thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the skillet from heat and stir in vinegar and season additionally to taste. (Recipe can be prepared to this point up to 24 hours in advance and kept, covered tightly, in the refrigerator.)
Bring the sweet potato cakes to room temperature and heat the ragout. Serve the sweet potato cakes with the hot mushroom ragout spooned over the top. Garnish with remaining 1 tablespoon sage and serve.
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