Mushroom and cheese calzones
A let’s-get-a-few-friends-together soiree begs for party snacks with a few surprise ingredients -- bite-size turnovers that have personality and that go down perfectly with either a glass of crisp, cool white wine or a light summer ale.
These are life-of-the-party appetizers. Green and leafy watercress puts a peppery twist on traditional spanakopita, and fresh herbs and wild mushrooms class up mini calzones with truffle cheese. Ripe plantains used as the “dough” for festive vegetarian empanadas are a sweet-savory indulgence, light enough for a spring evening.
The fun one: Ditch the flour and make the empanada dough from a combination of plantains and bananas. Roast the plantains until they literally ooze from their skins, then blend them with super-ripe bananas and salt. A tortilla press -- inexpensive and readily available at most Latino markets -- and two sheets of plastic wrap serve best to flatten balls of the sticky dough into round discs ready for stuffing, but a heavy-bottom skillet can substitute for the press.
Toss together green onions, roasted chipotle, cheese and refried beans and spoon a little onto each empanada, then carefully fold the dough into half-moon shapes. Pan-fry them quickly in hot oil until golden brown on the outside; the result is light and crisp on the outside, warm and tender on the inside. Serve them immediately with chilled chipotle-inflected creme fraiche.
Herb ‘n’ mushroom bliss: Mounds of fresh herbs are overflowing at markets, so it’s almost a given to throw a handful into a calzone dough. Sprinkle in some thyme and make way for the guests who will follow the crisp aroma into the kitchen.
For the filling, a mix of wild mushrooms -- like oyster, shiitake and creminis -- pairs beautifully with the thyme. Add a bit of pancetta and truffle cheese (truffle cheese is easier to find than truffles). Grind some black pepper onto the thyme-flecked calzones and watch them puff up into golden morsels, warm and deliciously gooey in the middle.
Presto pesto: Watercress is the base for a pesto that gets tucked into spanakopita-style turnovers. We keep the feta cheese, the tang of which goes well with the watercress pesto (made with the addition of garlic and almonds) and add lemon-garlic chicken. The marinated chicken can be grilled ahead of time and stored in the fridge.
The sheets of paper-thin filo dough traditionally used for spanakopitas can be found at most grocery stores and Greek markets. (Keep them covered with damp paper towels and handle delicately.)
Lay one sheet on a clean surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Add two more sheets brushed with butter. Cut the dough cross-wise into eight strips, then spoon a little chicken, pesto and a pinch of feta on one end before folding into triangles.
In less than 20 minutes, the lightly golden turnovers emerge sharp and rich -- a brilliantly buttery party treat.
You can also put them in airtight plastic bags and freeze them and then reheat them at your leisure -- for even those unexpected guests.
Dissolve the yeast in one-half cup of warm water. Sprinkle the sugar over the mixture and stir. Allow to stand until bubbly, 10 to 15 minutes, then stir in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
In a large mixing bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, 3 teaspoons thyme and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the yeast mixture to the flour along with an additional one-half cup warm water and mix to combine.
Turn out the dough onto a board and knead by hand, or continue to mix using a dough hook, until smooth and satiny, about 5 minutes. Place the dough into an oiled bowl and cover loosely with plastic wrap, then allow to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.
While the dough is rising, prepare the mushroom filling. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-high heat until hot. Add the mushrooms and three-eighths teaspoon salt. Saute, stirring, until the mushrooms are lightly browned and dry, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
To the pot, add the remaining tablespoon oil along with the pancetta and saute over medium heat until caramelized and crispy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until they are tender and fragrant, 1 minute. Stir in the reserved mushrooms and the remaining half-teaspoon of thyme. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then cool to room temperature.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Punch down the dough and divide it in half. Roll out each half to one-eighth-inch thickness, then cut out rounds using a 2 1/2 -inch cutter. You should have 2 1/2 dozen rounds from each half.
Assemble the calzones: Lightly brush the edges of half of the rounds with the beaten egg, then top with a generous teaspoon of mushroom filling and a half-teaspoon of cheese. Top each mound with another round of dough, pressing the edges together to seal completely. Brush each calzone with the beaten egg, then top with a sprinkle of fresh ground pepper. Make a small slit in the center of each calzone to form a vent and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve warm.
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