Poached pears with red wine caramel sauce
PERFECTLY ripe, the pear is a paradox: verging on crisp, yet soft as velvet. With every juicy bite, its delicate flavor invites comparisons to nectar and flowers and meadows, but there’s no need really. Just as its voluptuous silhouette sets the standard in the lexicon of shapes, the pear tastes inimitably of itself.
Still, it requires a little patience. With the pear, there is a time for everything. A time for picking, when the fruit is mature yet hard. A time for ripening, when sweetness unfurls from its core, transforming the flesh all the way to the skin. And a time for eating, when those who have patiently watched and waited are at last rewarded. When that moment arrives, you must seize it -- gently. This is when you hold the pear in your hand, its bulbous blossom end a comforting weight in your palm and its narrow head securely snug between thumb and finger, and lightly squeeze by the stem. It will yield just so, and you’ll know. It is ready. Waste not a moment -- the beautiful paradox lasts only so long.
Eaten out of hand, it is perfection. Placed in the hand of a cook, it is inspiration. Sweetness begets sweetness.
Here in Southern California, our leaves might not turn the rusty reds and fiery yellows and brilliant greens and mossy browns of a picture-book fall, but our pears most certainly do. And perhaps that is why we prize them even more. They’re our harbinger of the season.
Pears
Combine the wine, vanilla bean and seeds, lemon peel and sugar in a saucepan large enough to hold 4 pears. Bring the mixture to a boil then reduce the heat to simmer.
Peel the pears, leaving the stem intact. Use a melon baller or a half-teaspoon measuring spoon to remove the core at the bottom of the pear.
Place the pears in the simmering wine and cook, turning frequently to immerse the pears in the wine on all the sides. Poach until a small knife can easily pierce the pears, about 8 to 15 minutes, depending on size and ripeness.
Remove the pears using a slotted spoon and place them in a large glass bowl. Pour half the poaching liquid over the pears. Set aside the remaining poaching liquid in the pan to make the caramel sauce. (The pears can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated.)
Caramel sauce and assembly
Remove the lemon strips and vanilla bean from the reserved poaching liquid. Return the pan to the stove and cook the remaining liquid over medium heat until it reduces to half a cup, about 15 minutes.
Place the sugar and water in a medium heavy saucepan. Turn the heat to high and melt the sugar without stirring. When the mixture starts to boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook without stirring until the sugar turns a deep amber color, 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and carefully add the reduced poaching liquid (pour it down the side of the pan). The mixture will bubble up and bits of sugar may harden.
Return the pan to the stove over medium heat. Stir in the cream. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly. (Makes about 1 cup caramel sauce. The sauce can be made a day ahead. It will thicken as it cools; before serving, microwave for 10 to 15 seconds.)
Spoon a few tablespoons of caramel sauce onto each of 4 dessert plates. Place a pear on top of each plate. Drizzle the remaining sauce on top of pears near the stem and serve.
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