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Tomato-red pepper sauce

Tomato-red pepper sauce
Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times

What really makes the meals of Passover, which begins this year on Monday at sundown, different? It may not be what you think.

The simple answer is found in Exodus 13:6-7: "For seven days you must eat matzos (unleavened bread).... No chametz or leaven (starter dough) should be seen anywhere in your territory."

But it's more complicated than that. Often chametz is translated as leavening, yeast or fermented food, but Rabbi Gil Marks, the author of "Encyclopedia of Jewish Food," says that this is inaccurate. Yeast is used in making wine, and cheese is a fermented food, yet both are permitted on Passover. Pasta made from wheat is not a leavened food, but it is chametz. The correct definition of chametz, writes Marks, is degradation — the result of "enzymes breaking down starch in the presence of water into complex sugars and simple sugars."

The Talmud specifies that five grains can become chametz when exposed to water. These grains are suitable for making matzo, but any other use of them on Passover is forbidden. In the past, the list was translated as wheat, barley, spelt, oats and rye. Modern scholars have revised the translation because oats and rye were not grown in the Middle East in biblical times. According to Marks, the grains on the list are einkorn, emmer, durum wheat and two kinds of barley.

Besides replacing the customary challah by a plate of matzos, there's another major difference in Passover meals. Many foods used to prepare satisfying side dishes are excluded.

The reason? Over the centuries, Ashkenazi rabbis extended the list of foods prohibited on Passover to include all grains and legumes, because wheat grains might have been inadvertently mixed in during packing. (Some rabbis now allow quinoa.) Various restrictions regarding grains and legumes were adopted in some Sephardi communities too. Certain Sephardim abstain from eating rice and beans, especially garbanzo beans, because the word for them in Hebrew — hummus — sounds like chametz. On the other hand, North African Jews use fresh legumes, such as green fava beans, in traditional Passover dishes.

The challenge for observant Jewish cooks is to prepare filling Passover meals without most of the usual carbs: bread, grains and legumes. This might seem almost like menu planning for the paleo diet, but there's a perk: Matzo is allowed.

On its own, matzo might seem uninspiring, but Jewish cooks use it to create a variety of tasty Passover side dishes and entrees. Most of them are combinations of matzo, eggs and vegetables baked as casseroles or sautéed as cakes. Some are flavored with ground meat or, for meatless meals, enriched with cheese or yogurt. They're at their best when they have generous amounts of flavorings, such as sautéed onions, garlic, herbs and seasonings, and just enough matzo or matzo meal to give them structure. To American Jews, most of whom are Ashkenazim, matzo kugel is the most familiar example of such dishes.

Growing up in an Ashkenazi home, I always looked forward to my mother's matzo kugels. She made them like her noodle kugels, substituting moistened matzo or farfel (chopped matzo) for the noodles and mixing it with eggs. For savory kugels, she added sautéed onions and mushrooms, and for sweet ones, apples and cinnamon. We often flavor savory kugels, such as our Passover cauliflower kugelettes, with Middle Eastern spices and serve them with green salads.

A popular Sephardi Passover dish, mina, sometimes called matzo lasagna, is made of whole matzos layered with green vegetables, meat or cheese and enriched with olive oil. Sephardim also make fritada, a casserole of grated or mashed vegetables baked with eggs and matzo meal until it's firm enough to be cut. Jews of Greek origin bake Passover spanakopita from sautéed chopped spinach, dill and green onions mixed with matzo meal, eggs and lemon juice and layered with matzos sprinkled with olive oil. To make sfoungato, they add lamb to a similar sauté of greens and bake the casserole with a matzo meal crust. In Israel, these kinds of sliceable casseroles are often called pashtidot.

The paradox of Passover is that, in spite of the restrictions, there are so many delicious dishes that the eight days of the holiday, as it is celebrated outside Israel, are not enough to enjoy them all.

Levy is the author of "1,000 Jewish Recipes" and "Jewish Cooking for Dummies."

food@latimes.com

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Total time: 1 hour | Serves 8 to 12
Note: Serve this sauce with Passover green vegetable pashtidah. It is also good with simply cooked vegetables, such as roasted eggplant, boiled cauliflower and steamed potatoes.
  • 2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large red bell pepper, finely diced into 1/4-inch pieces
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/8 teaspoon hot pepper flakes or cayenne pepper, or to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper to taste

Step 1Prepare the tomatoes: Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Core the tomatoes, and slit the skin at the bottom of each tomato in an X. Put the tomatoes into the boiling water to cover and boil just until the tomato skin starts to pull away from the X, about 30 seconds. Transfer the tomatoes to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Remove them from the cold water promptly and pull off the peel. Halve the tomatoes and squeeze out their juice and seeds, then chop them. You should have a generous 2 1/2 cups. Set aside.

Step 2Heat the olive oil in a deep sauté pan. Add the diced red pepper and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes.

Step 3Add the garlic, paprika and pepper flakes, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the chopped tomatoes, salt and pepper, and mix well. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the tomatoes are very tender and the sauce is thick, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if desired; this makes about 2 cups sauce. Serve hot or at room temperature. Stir before serving.

Each of 12 servings:
Calories 38; Protein 1 gram; Carbohydrates 4 grams; Fiber 1 gram; Fat 2 grams; Saturated fat 0; Cholesterol 0 mg; Sugar 2 grams; Sodium 101 mg.
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