Upma
Layers of crunch — the soft cellulose crunch of sautéed onions, ginger, garlic and chile; the knuckly, nutty crunch of cashews or peanuts; and the crisp, more precise crunch of tiny fried daals, both chana (dried yellow peas) and urad (dried black lentils) — give this fragrant, savory porridge an utterly addictive texture. Dried spices (mustard seeds, ground coriander, cumin, fenugreek, asafetida and turmeric) and fresh herbs (cilantro and curry leaves) add flavor and fragrance. A little sugar (optional) gives depth.
Serve the upma with yogurt, coconut chutney and lime pickle on the side, and/or a poached egg.
Leftovers can be cooled in a loaf shape and sliced to fry in ghee or oil for yet another layer of crunch.
From the story: Two writers consider their favorite savory Indian porridges
Heat a heavy-bottomed pan and roast the semolina, stirring constantly, until it becomes fragrant, dry and slightly more opaque, 2 to 3 minutes; do not allow it to brown. Pour the semolina out onto a plate and set aside.
In the same pan heated over medium-high heat add the oil or ghee. Stir in the mustard seeds and fry until they crackle and jump, about 1 minute.
Reduce the heat and add the cumin seeds, both dals and the cashews. Fry, stirring frequently, until the dals and cashews are a light golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes.
Add the onion and fry, stirring, until it is soft and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chiles, ginger and curry leaves and stir for one minute.
Add the water, salt and sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning and sweetness if desired. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to low.
Add the semolina in stages, stirring to incorporate each addition to avoid lumps. When all of the semolina has been incorporated, cover and steam the upma over low heat until the water has evaporated or been absorbed, and the porridge has come together, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat. Stir in the cilantro leaves, reserving a few to sprinkle on each serving. Set the upma aside to rest for a few minutes before serving.
Those with wheat allergies can substitute instant grits, cornmeal or even oats for the wheat cereal.
Chana dal, urad dal and curry leaves can be found at Indian grocers.
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