Vegetable-stuffed Hungarian peppers
They tumble out of farmers market crates entwined in pairs like folk dancers, elongated necks extending from slender, bell-shaped pods. Hungarian peppers, ranging in color from soft butter yellows to radiant greens, are back for their annual summer fling.
Lighter and more delicate than bell peppers, Hungarian are on the sweet side, with none of the punch of a poblano. Cut them up one night to add a subtle crunch to summer salads, stuff them with a garden of sauteed vegetables the next. Lightly simmered in a fresh tomato stew or simply sliced and served raw, their bright flavor is versatile enough to work into a variety of favorite summer dishes.
Part of the Hungarian pepper’s charm is that with its less assertive taste and thinner flesh, it responds well to quick cooking on the grill. Quartered and grilled until crisp-tender, the palm-sized pods gain a smoky sweetness that gives definition to chicken salad that’s wonderful when made with Hungarian paprika and small riso or orzo (rice-sized pasta).
The salad components can be prepared ahead and assembled just before serving. When you’re ready to serve, fold several handfuls of torn romaine leaves and blanched green beans into grilled lemon-scented chicken. Serve with korozott, a Hungarian caraway-cream cheese spread, lightened in this recipe with cottage cheese. It ages beautifully over several weeks, lending its anise scent to morning bagels or late afternoon rye toasts -- spread and sprinkle with freshly diced peppers.
Use Hungarian peppers to bolster a summery version of lecso, a traditional stew brimming with peak-of-season tomatoes. Trade the classic sausages and potatoes for a small handful of diced, meaty Hungarian kolozsvari (bacon), or any good-quality, lightly smoked bacon to add complexity without too much heft.
Save the pan drippings to saute sweet onions, add the peppers and tomatoes (the juicier the better; if your tomatoes are too dry, add a few splashes of water), and cook until the paprika-laced sauce is simmering with peppery sweetness. Spoon it over a steaming bowl of rice, shower the lecso with chopped parsley, and pull out a crusty baguette to sop up the last few drops.
In Hungary, tolteni valo paprika (“peppers for stuffing”) earned their name from the meat fillings they’re so closely associated with -- but they’re even more seductive brimming with multicolored squash, sweet corn and earthy mushrooms.
Halve the peppers, being careful to leave the base and stems intact, and blanch until the peppers are tender but still hold their shape. Fill with lightly sauteed vegetables, sprinkle with fragrant basil and bread crumbs seasoned with dill, and bake until golden brown. Serve on a sea of fresh tomato basil sauce.
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly brush a shallow 12-by-7-inch baking dish with olive oil.
Halve each pepper lengthwise, taking care to leave the base and stem intact (the peppers should look like little boats) for each of the larger halves. Chop the remaining smaller halves into a small dice and set aside.
Remove the seeds, then cook the peppers in salted, boiling water just until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Strain and set aside.
In a large, heavy skillet heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add the onion and sauté until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they are tender and have released their juices, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the diced pepper and squash and sauté until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes more, adding oil as needed to prevent sticking. Add the corn kernels and 1 teaspoon each of minced basil and chopped dill. Add one-half teaspoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the tomato sauce, by coarsely chopping the tomatoes and pulsing them in a food processor to a coarse purée. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 cloves minced garlic, sautéing just until aromatic. Add the tomato purée and half of the chicken broth.
Add one-fourth teaspoon salt and bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Halfway through, stir in the remaining chicken broth. Remove from heat and stir in the roughly chopped basil.
To assemble, spoon the sauce into the prepared baking dish, covering the bottom completely and evenly. Divide the sautéed vegetables evenly among the pepper halves, filling the peppers completely.
In a small bowl, mix the bread crumbs with the remaining garlic, minced basil and chopped dill. Season with a pinch of salt, and stir in 1 tablespoon of the melted butter. Spoon the bread crumbs evenly over the stuffed peppers and drizzle the remaining butter over each.
Carefully place the peppers in the pan over the tomato sauce. Place the pan in the oven, and bake until the bread crumbs are browned on top and the sauce is bubbly, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately.
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