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Basic rice congee

Time1 hour
YieldsServes 4 to 6
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Congee, for the uninitiated, is basically rice boiled with water until it has a porridge-like consistency. I know, it sounds pretty boring. But the genius is in the garnishes -- which can be seafood, sausage, pork, duck, thousand-year-old egg and a kazillion other tidbits. Before digging in with a Chinese soup spoon, you dose your congee (known as jook in Cantonese) with chile paste, soy sauce, cilantro and peanuts.

It’s laughably easy to make at home. Basically, it involves boiling one cup of rice to eight cups of water. (Use more if you like your porridge looser.) Remember to wash the rice well beforehand until there’s no floury residue.

Set out each garnish in a small bowl so guests can garnish their congee at the table. These should include some sliced scallions, cilantro leaves, roasted (preferably unsalted) peanuts, maybe some Chinese pickled vegetables and sliced chiles or crimson chile paste. Pass the soy sauce too. Some people like a drizzle of sesame oil and a pinch of white pepper.

From the story: Cooking up a craving for congee

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1

In a large pot, bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and stir gently until the water returns to a boil. Lower the heat to a gentle boil, add one-half teaspoon salt and continue to cook for 15 minutes. The rice should be cooked but still firm. Remove from heat and set aside, uncovered, for 15 minutes, up to an hour. The rice will continue to soften and absorb water as it sits. (If you want the grains very soft and broken, use a little more boiling water and boil for 30 minutes rather than 15.)

2

While the rice is cooking, heat a skillet or wok over medium heat until hot. Add the oil, and when it is hot, add the garlic and stir-fry until it begins to color. Add the ground pork and one-quarter teaspoon salt and stir until the pork is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, place in a bowl and set aside.

3

Place the garnishes (roasted peanuts, chopped chiles, chopped green onion, cilantro and pickled vegetables) in small bowls or in separate piles on a platter.

4

Just before serving, stir the cooked rice gently. If you find the congee too thick, add boiling water one-half cup at a time to achieve the desired consistency. Transfer to a serving bowl. Ladle the hot congee into individual soup bowls at the table.

5

Place the bowl of sauteed pork and garlic on the table, along with a small bowl of soy sauce, salt and pepper, and the platter or bowls of other accompaniments so that the guests can help themselves as they please.

Adapted from “The Seductions of Rice” by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. They write, “Some people like their congee thin, with the rice grains cooked until broken and somewhat shapeless. We prefer it the consistency of a thick soup, with the rice grains intact. You can adjust the consistency by adding extra water. The list of accompaniments given here is meant as a guideline. Sprinkle them on top of your congee or stir them in; feel free to add other textures and flavors to the array of garnishes and condiments you set out on the table.”.