Advertisement

Big Apple Bagels

Time2 hours
YieldsMakes 12 bagels
Big Apple Bagels
Share
Print RecipePrint Recipe

There’s never an occasion when I can’t find an excuse to pop something in the oven. And no one at my table--blood-related or otherwise--has ever said, “No, I couldn’t possibly have another fresh, hot crumpet.” Baking a my house is not just a sometime thing.

That’s especially true for breakfast. Bagels, brioches and bialys, croissants and crumpets--there are so many traditional breads you can happily make, bake and serve between the hours of dawn and noon.

Breakfast breads are traditional and comforting. There’s little need to reinvent the wheel or push the envelope; the old favorites have sufficed for years and will continue to do so.

Crumpets are a great example. A good crumpet is like a cross between a pancake and an English muffin, though it’s really a mistake to compare them to anything else--especially to store-bought crumpets. If you have never had a homemade crumpet, you’re in for a treat. It’s puffy, golden and moist but crusty.

Then there’s pain au chocolat, the favorite treat of millions of French schoolkids. My recipe is a shortcut version of the classic, but it’s still sweet and buttery, made from a very rich (but easy) sweet dough hiding a cache of chopped-up chocolate that melts just a touch during baking.

Sally Lunn Bread is an American (and English) classic much like a brioche. This buttery, slightly sweet loaf is wonderful whether it’s served fresh or toasted with butter and honey.

To listen to people from New York, it’s the only place where real bagels can be made, because you have to have New York City tap water. I disagree. This recipe gives resoundingly authentic-tasting bagels no matter whose water you use.

On the other hand, nothing beats a good biscuit. A combination of leaveners--yeast, baking powder and soda--makes these extra-light, and an overnight rise makes them ready to bake when you are. It’s traditional to keep a big batch of batter in the refrigerator so you can cut off and bake portions as required.

The one twist on tradition here is the English muffin bread. I first noticed it in a book by James Beard and was intrigued by the idea of fiddling with two leaveners, baking soda and yeast. It’s a triumph--a coarse and grainy loaf that combines English muffin texture and taste with a traditional quick loaf’s ease and toast-ability.

Best of all, nothing special is needed for these recipes--just the basic flour, yeast, butter and sugar. Add a hefty mug of coffee or a proper pot of tea and it’s cue reveille. Sound the chuck-wagon bell. Dig in.

Advertisement
1

Whisk together yeast, warm water, oil, sugar and 2 teaspoons malt powder. Stir in 1 cup flour, then 2 teaspoons salt, then most of remaining flour. Knead on floured board 10 to 12 minutes to make a very stiff dough. Cover and let dough rest on a board about 10 minutes.

2

Divide dough into 10 to 12 sections and form into 10-inch long strips. Roll ends together to seal and make a ring. Place on a very lightly floured surface near your stove. Let bagels rest 15 to 20 minutes. Bagels should have a “half proof”--they should rise halfway or appear puffy.

3

Line 1 baking sheet with a kitchen towel. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly sprinkle them with cornmeal, if desired. Bring water to boil in large soup pot or Dutch oven; add 2 tablespoons malt powder and 1 teaspoon salt. Reduce water to simmer and add bagels a few at a time. Allow to come to surface and simmer 30 seconds. Turn over and cook other side about 45 seconds (total 1 1/2 minutes). Place on towel-lined baking sheet. Leave plain or sprinkle on topping of choice. Transfer to parchment-lined baking sheets.

4

Place in 450-degree oven and reduce heat to 425 degrees. Bake until golden brown, about 17 to 22 minutes, turning bagels once, when almost baked. (If you have a baking stone, finish bagels on the stone directly.)

Malt powder or syrup can be found at well-stocked health food markets.