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Brazilian cheese bread

Time1 hour
YieldsServes 10 to 12
Brazilian cheese bread
(Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times)
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The holidays are frantic times, full of hustle and bustle and cocktail parties and big dinners. It’s also a time of high anxiety for a lot of people — it’s the one time of year even folks who can’t normally find the stove feel obliged to prepare a multi-course menu and invite everyone they know.

But our favorite Domestic Goddess says we should stop the madness.

Nigella Lawson, author of 10 cookbooks, including 2000’s “How to Be a Domestic Goddess” and the recently published “Simply Nigella,” says when she entertains at home, she follows a few simple rules, paramount among them: “I can’t invite people over to eat if I wouldn’t be comfortable were I in my pajamas and no makeup.”

She’s got a chapter in her new book devoted to this kind of relaxed entertaining, “when I want to feed people but, most importantly, want to make my friends feel welcome, and all of us to feel happy.”

Instead of an elaborately laid table, there might be a canister of mismatched flatware and a stack of napkins for people to choose from. Rather than plated appetizers, she’s much more likely to serve what she calls “picky bits,” such as a dip made by puréeing roasted sweet potatoes and garlic and chickpeas. Or a cheese bread she learned when she recently visited Brazil.

“The perfectionist drive makes life hell for host and guest alike,” she writes in the book. “An informal atmosphere is not only the most welcoming one, but — for me — the only way to ensure that I don’t regret inviting people over in the first place.”

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1

Heat the oven to 425 degrees and line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

2

In a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using an electric mixer, flat beater, or with a hand-held electric whisk, combine the tapioca flour and salt.

3

In a saucepan, heat the milk and oil, bringing gently to a boil. Once it’s bubbling, take the pan off the heat before it comes to a full rolling boil and immediately pour it into the flour mixture and turn on the mixer, beating slowly at first, until it forms a sticky batter.

4

Continue beating the batter for at least 5 minutes (you want it to cool down before you add the eggs), then scrape down and check with your fingers to see if it is still hot to the touch. You need to cool it to about body temperature, which could take up to 10 minutes of beating.

5

Once you have reached this point, gradually whisk in the beaten eggs, spooning them in very gradually, about a tablespoon or so at a time, and make sure that the egg is fully amalgamated before you add the next spoonful.

6

Finally add — still beating — the Parmesan cheese in 2 batches, and continue to beat until all ingredients are, again, well combined.

7

Scoop teaspoon-sized balls onto the lined baking sheets. If needed, dip the spoon in water every couple of scoops as the dough drops out of the spoon more easily. Leave a little space between the balls as they will expand as they bake; this makes about 4 dozen balls.

8

Put in the oven, then immediately turn the heat down to 375 degrees and bake until puffed and with a golden tinge, 12 to 15 minutes. Let the cheese breads cool a little before serving.

Adapted from Nigella Lawson’s “Simply Nigella.”