If there aren’t any deviled eggs at a cocktail party, did the party really happen? I have a friend who is adamant that a celebration is not a celebration without a platter of deviled eggs. And she isn’t the only ... Read more
Step 1In a blender, combine the egg yolks, lemon juice and mustard. With the blender on medium speed, slowly add the oil until emulsified. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, or to taste. This makes about 2 cups aioli, which will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 1 week.
12 hard-boiled eggs, cooled, peeled and halved lengthwise
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons lemon aioli
2 tablespoons yuzu kosho
24 strips uni
Salt and pepper
Step 1In a bowl, mash together the egg yolks with the lemon aioli and yuzu kosho. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, or to taste, stirring well. This makes about 1 ¼ cups aioli. Spoon the mixture into the egg whites and garnish each deviled egg with a strip of uni.
Note: Adapted from a recipe by chef Jason Fullilove of Barbara Jean restaurant. Although many recipes, such as the aioli, call for raw egg yolks, the U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends that diners — especially children, seniors, pregnant women and those with compromised immune systems — avoid eating them.
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Deviled eggs with uni
By Jenn Harris |
If there aren’t any deviled eggs at a cocktail party, did the party really happen? I have a friend who is adamant that a celebration is not a celebration without a platter of deviled eggs. And she isn’t the only one. Deviled eggs make an appearance on restaurant menus all over the city; and they’ve been associated with cocktail parties and celebrations since post-World War II America.
Modern iterations of the dish have come a long way from those made in the 1940s, which mostly consisted of mayonnaise, paprika and mustard. Chef Sam Jung puts pickled mustard seeds and crunchy croutons on the deviled eggs at Church & State in downtown L.A. There’s gochujang paste and kimchi juice in the eggs at Faith & Flower, another downtown restaurant. And at Barbara Jean in Fairfax, chef Jason Fullilove spikes his deviled eggs with yuzu-kosho, then tops them with uni.
Just think of the deviled egg as a perfectly composed dish: bite-sized flavor bombs that offer a study in both texture and balance. The acid component — often from vinegar, mustard or lemon — should pop. The texture, smoothed by an aioli or mayonnaise, should be silky and luxurious. And the garnish — which can vary from sprigs of dill to crumbled chicharrones, a quenelle of caviar or a sprinkle of Everything Bagel spice — should tie all the flavors together while riffing further on the textures of the dish.
Because any party you throw should be a celebration, particularly one thrown on the last night of the year, here are 12 different ways to make deviled eggs — with recipes from chefs Daniel Patterson (Alta), Govind Armstrong (Post & Beam), Roy Choi (Commissary), April Bloomfield (Hearth & Hound), Josef Centeno (Bar Amá) and more.
How long you boil your eggs — and whether you use an immersion blender, or good old-fashioned elbow grease to make your own aioli — is up to you. Some eggs call for garlic aioli, others require a little Kewpie mayonnaise. Some require a dash of Tabasco sauce, while others favor a couple splashes of Champagne vinegar. Whatever you decide, just be sure you make enough for everyone.