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Deviled kidneys

Deviled kidneys
Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times

Perhaps no one in modern culinary history has popularized the use of the whole animal as much as British chef Fergus Henderson. Henderson, the legendary chef of the St. John restaurant group, pioneered the modern culinary “nose-to-tail” movement, in which ... Read more

Total time: 20 minutes | Serves 2
  • 6 lambs’ kidneys, suet and membrane removed and slit in half lengthwise, retaining the kidney shape
  • 3 tablespoons flour
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon dry English mustard
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • A big knob of butter
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • A healthy splash of chicken stock
  • 2 pieces toast (white or brown, up to you, though — just an observation — white seems to sup up the juices better)

Step 1Nip out the white fatty gristle of the kidneys using a knife or scissors.

Step 2In a bowl, mix together the flour, cayenne pepper, mustard, salt and pepper.

Step 3Heat a frying pan over high heat until very hot, then add the butter. As the butter melts, roll the kidneys in the spiced flour, then shake them in a sieve to remove the excess flour. Place the kidneys in the sizzling pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Add a hearty splash of Worcestershire and chicken stock, and let all of the ingredients get to know each other.

Step 4Remove the kidneys to your two waiting bits of toast, and continue to cook the sauce until it reduces and emulsifies in the pan (do not let it disappear), then pour over the kidneys and toast.

Note: Adapted from a recipe by chef Fergus Henderson. He writes that this is “the perfect breakfast on your birthday, with a glass of Black Velvet.”


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