Frittata base
As good as the toppings are, eggs are undoubtedly the star of this dish, and your frittata will be only as good as your eggs. So buy the best, freshest eggs you can find. When whisking the eggs, I add water because I think it helps to emulsify the eggs and whites. Also, make sure to season them as specified. You need to add enough salt to the raw eggs as it will be impossible to properly season them once they’re cooked. When cooking the eggs, use medium-low to low heat. Think of scrambled eggs as a custard: You want them light and tender, with no color (browning) on them whatsoever. The way to do this is to control the heat, and if they seem to be cooking too quickly, lower it. (You almost can’t cook them too low.)
These frittatas are best cooked for small numbers, and by small, I mean one or two people, as they need to be cooked one at a time. I guess if you have two 9-inch skillets and you are well coordinated, you could do two at a time, like a restaurant line cook. In any case, you’ll serve them one at a time, sliding each frittata onto a plate and handing it to some lucky eater, as it is done.
From the story: A fresh take on the frittata: Master Class
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, water and salt with a fork until well combined.
In a 9- to 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat butter over medium-low to low heat until melted, 2 to 3 minutes, without letting it brown or sizzle.
Pour in the eggs without swirling, but shake the pan very gently, until the sides are set.
Using a heatproof rubber spatula, draw the set edges of the egg mass inward, away from the sides of the pan, tilting the pan so the raw egg runs into and fills the space created. Continue gently cooking and pulling the eggs in this way until almost no egg runs off when you tilt the pan.
Immediately scatter the toppings “artfully” over, and if the eggs seem as if they are setting, remove the pan from the heat. If the eggs are still a bit runny, continue cooking as you add the toppings.
When finished, slide onto a plate and serve.
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