'Igaili (cardamom-saffron sponge cake)
Today marks the start of Eid al-Fitr, a three-day holiday signaling the end of Ramadan, Islam’s holiest month. According to culinary historian and former Times food writer Charles Perry, “ ‘Fitr,’ or the ‘breaking of fast,’ is traditionally associated with sweets.”
We’ve compiled three recipes to commemorate the holiday. Two recipes -- milky rice pudding (muhalbiyat al-ruz) and cardamom-saffron sponge cake (‘igaili) -- are from Sarah al-Hamad’s upcoming cookbook “Cardamom and Lime: Recipes From the Arabian Gulf,” celebrating the rich cuisines of the Arabian Gulf -- Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Oman and the United Arab Emirates. We’ve also obtained the recipe for ashta, a fragrant custard-like cream, from Dolly Chammaa of Sunnin Lebanese Cafe (locations in Westwood and Long Beach).
Introducing her pudding, Al-Hamad notes the popularity of milky desserts in the Middle East and describes regional variations thickened alternately with rice, rice flour and even corn flour. In this recipe, Al-Hamad uses soaked rice that’s partly pureed in a blender before it’s cooked. This gives the pudding a textured yet silky feel. It’s a simple recipe; the pudding’s not too sweet and subtly perfumed with cardamom and rose water. Prepare it up to a day ahead, and serve chilled with a sprinkling of chopped pistachios.
The light, airy texture of the sponge cake showcases the sweet dates, walnuts and sesame seeds added to the batter. It’s very aromatic, liberally spiced with cardamom, saffron and turmeric.
Chammaa’s ashta is a fragrant and lightly sweetened pudding that’s reminiscent of clotted cream. Made from half-and-half that’s steeped with mastic -- the aromatic resin from the Mediterranean tree of the same name -- then boiled with rose water and orange blossom water, it’s a wonderful component of a dessert buffet. Chammaa serves it topped with banana, chopped pistachios and honey, or with baklava. Other combinations of fruits and nuts -- late plums, perhaps, with walnuts or almonds -- would be equally festive.
Eid Mubarak, blessed Eid!
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Soak the saffron in 2 tablespoons of very warm water for 20 minutes, then set aside.
Mash the dates with a fork, then roll the small mashed pieces into small pea-sized balls (about 2 dozen) and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, whisk together the eggs and sugar until light, fluffy and almost meringue-like in texture, 7 to 10 minutes. Gently whisk in the cardamom and turmeric.
In a small bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder, then slowly add them to the egg mixture while whisking. Continue whisking while you add the saffron-infused water and oil just until combined.
Grease a round 9-inch springform or regular cake pan with butter and line with parchment paper. Butter the top of the parchment paper. Dust the bottom and sides with 2 teaspoons of the sesame seeds.
Pour half the cake mixture into the pan, scatter with the tiny date balls, then cover with the remaining mixture and a last sprinkling of sesame seeds. Top with chopped walnuts.
Bake for 35 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown on top (a toothpick inserted in the middle should come out clean).
Cool the cake, then release the spring and turn upside down onto a plate. Invert again and serve with a spoonful of creme fraiche or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
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