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Khmer Fish Stew With Lemon Grass (Samla' Metchou Peng Pa)

Time50 minutes
YieldsServes 4
Khmer Fish Stew With Lemon Grass (Samla' Metchou Peng Pa)
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Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid explain in “Hot Sour Salty Sweet” (Artisan, $40) that samla’ are “wet dishes,” somewhere between a stew and a hearty soup. They are the standard accompaniment for rice in Cambodia, hot and tasty, often sour and usually loaded with lemon grass and other aromatics. The most common samla’ is made with fish from the river or from the Great Lake, the Tonle Sap.

This fish samla’ is easy, needing no special broth and no long cooking. It’s a close cousin of canh chua, the Vietnamese sour soup so common in the delta, but heartier. Perhaps canh chua is originally Khmer, or maybe it’s an inevitable combination, because a lightly sour and lemony broth goes so beautifully with fish.

Serve this from a large bowl at the table, ladling it into individual small bowls, accompanied by rice, and perhaps a simple vegetable stir-fry, to make an easy meal.

Tamarind pulp, fish sauce, fresh culantro or sawtooth herbs, Asian basil and rice paddy herbs or Vietnamese coriander can be found at Asian markets.

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1

Bring water and lemon grass to vigorous boil in large pot. Boil 5 minutes, half-covered, then reduce heat and simmer over medium heat a few minutes.

2

Once broth is simmering, scoop about 1 cup liquid into small bowl. Add tamarind pulp to bowl, stir well to dissolve thoroughly and set aside.

3

Rinse off fish. If using large steaks, cut into roughly 1 1/2- to 2-inch pieces. If using small steaks, cut in half. Add to broth along with garlic, bring to a boil, and simmer until fish is opaque, 3 minutes. Add fish sauce and salt. Place sieve or fine strainer over soup and pour tamarind liquid through it. Use back of wooden spoon to press tamarind pulp against strainer, then discard remaining seeds and pith. Stir stew well and simmer several minutes.

4

Add tomatoes, green onions, culantro, Asian basil, rice paddy herb and sugar to stew and simmer 5 minutes. Serve hot.