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Nut Slices

Time1 hour 30 minutes
YieldsMakes 8 slices
Nut Slices
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The holidays are the time of year when dessert finally takes on as much importance as the main course. Neighborhood gatherings, office parties and family get-togethers coax us into the spirit of the season with high-piled platters of sweet irresistibles.

Even for non-bakers, the primal urge to bake sets in. Ovens that haven’t been turned on in months heat and sizzle. The familiar scents of cloves and toasting nuts saturate our senses, conjuring up childhood memories and joyful moments with faraway relatives. The spirit of holidays past compels us to dig out old recipes and bake extravagant arrays of cookies, fancy fruit tarts and mounds of candies.

It’s easy to get carried away. An elaborately decorated bu^che de Noel might dazzle everyone, but who has the time for such a project?

This is definitely not the season to experiment. Complicated recipes and a sink full of batter-coated gadgets will only add to the pressure and turn you into a grumbling grinch. The last thing you need is a long list of ingredients stuffed in your bulging date book . . . behind all those other shopping lists.

So choose recipes that won’t overwhelm you. The following desserts, though plain-looking, are not too involved and will create a lasting impression. Once out of the oven, they ask for only a simple touch, such as a light dusting of powdered sugar or a quick-to-make toffee sauce.

They’re not shy when it comes to flavor. Nut Slices, for instance, spiked with cinnamon and filled with toasted nuts, bring warm and cozy memories of Grandma. My version of the English classic Sticky Toffee Pudding gets its deep dark color and sweet, intense flavor from dates.

If you’ve never tasted Panforte, you’re in for a surprise. This Italian confection, filled with fruits and toasted nuts, makes a satisfyingly chewy and spicy dessert.

A little goes a long way, so don’t slice the wedges too large. If you want to give it away to friends or loved ones, bake it in small discs, wrap them in brown butcher paper and tie with twine, the way they do in Siena. They will keep for months.

In fact, you can get a head start on your gift list by baking on the weekends. Make Cranberry Almond Tea Bread, for example, wrap it in cellophane and tie the ends with silk ribbon; its glistening almond topping will shine through.

The stars of these desserts are the ingredients, so be sure to choose the best. Don’t settle for that hard, mysterious clump of fruit stashed in your refrigerator last year.

Use dried fruit that is fresh, moist and plump. Check out the dried fruit vendors at your local farmers market. Unlike commercial dried fruit, their products are soft and supple because they’re from the latest crop. You’ll find unusual varieties there, such as broken heart plums, flame raisins, Bosc pears, white nectarines and a wide range of dates, such as Khadrawi, Halawi and Medjool.

The same goes for spices. Throw out those 5-year-old jars of ground spices in your pantry. Buy a spice grinder and grind small batches of whole spices. Perry Doty is my favorite spice merchant. His little shop on Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles, All Spice, stocks premium spices and other ingredients used for baking. If you must buy your spices already ground, buy them as fresh as possible from a quality mail-order source.

When you get that urge to bake this year, give in. Just keep it sweet and simple. You just might find yourself baking these holiday desserts all year long.

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Nut filling

1

Spread almonds for both filling and dough on baking sheet and toast at 325 degrees until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Shake pan halfway through to ensure nuts are evenly toasted. Allow nuts to cool. Set aside 1/3 cup nuts for dough.

2

Combine 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons almonds with powdered sugar in bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade. Process until it is the consistency of a fine meal. Add cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl. Make a well in center and pour in 2 egg whites. Gradually draw in dry ingredients and whisk until thoroughly incorporated. Mixture should be shiny, smooth and spreadable. If it seems too stiff, add a few drops of the extra egg white. Set aside.

Dough

1

Combine almonds and half powdered sugar in bowl of food processor and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add remaining sugar, flour, baking powder and salt and pulse a few times to combine. Add butter and pulse on and off until it’s the consistency of a fine meal, 30 seconds.

2

Whisk together egg yolks, cream and orange flower water in small bowl. Add flour mixture and pulse until the dough barely comes together.

3

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Dip heel of your hand in flour and, working with small sections, smear dough away from you to blend it together. When dough has been all smeared out, use a metal scraper or spatula to scrape and gather it together. Divide dough in half and gently knead each half together. Flatten into 2 (3x5-inch) rectangles, wrap in plastic and chill until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

Assembly

1

Remove half the dough from refrigerator and turn onto lightly floured surface. Roll dough into 13x5-inch rectangle about 1/4 inch thick and transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet. Use a rule to trim edges so dough is 12x4 inches.

2

Using an offset spatula or back of a spoon, spread orange marmalade evenly over dough. Spread Nut Filling over marmalade. Chill bottom while you roll out remaining dough.

3

On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining half of dough into 15x6-inch rectangle, 1/8 inch thick. Cut dough into 12 strips, 3/4 inch wide. Remove bottom from refrigerator. Layer 6 strips diagonally across filling, at 1-inch intervals, using shorter pieces toward short ends of rectangle. To form second layer of lattice, place remaining strips over first layer, crisscrossing diagonally.

4

Trim strips with knife and cut dough into 8 equal slices. Chill 30 minutes.

5

Bake at 350 degrees until nicely browned, 40 minutes.

You’ll have some dough left over; roll it out and bake to make cookies. Look for orange flower water in the spice aisle or near the cocktail mixers in well-stocked supermarkets.