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Sephardi chicken soup with herb-flecked kneidelach

Time3 hours 30 minutes
YieldsServes 6 to 8
Sephardi chicken soup with herb-flecked kneidelach
(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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This soup conjoins two Jewish cultural traditions — the Ashkenazic of Eastern Europe from which my Polish and Russian parents descended, and the Sephardic of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern lands that fostered my husband’s Yemenite forebears. The chicken broth together with the herb-flecked kneidelach (Yiddish for matzo balls) is a hallmark of Ashkenazic cooking while zehug, a zesty chile-garlic relish, is a distinctive component of Yemenite (Sephardic) cuisine. The zehug is served on the side so that everyone can add “heat” according to their preference.

From the story: Kneidelach and zehug on the Passover table

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1

In a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the chicken, carrot chunks, the asparagus bases, the onion, celery, dill stems, cilantro stems and water.

2

Bring to a boil, skimming the foam a few times. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Skim thoroughly.

3

Add the cumin, turmeric, a pinch of salt and one-half teaspoon ground pepper. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook until the chicken is very tender and the soup is well flavored, about 2 hours, skimming occasionally.

4

Discard the pieces of vegetables and herbs. Remove the chicken pieces and cool slightly, then discard the skin and bones. Cut the meat in strips and return them to the soup. Skim the fat from the broth.

5

In a small saucepan, bring 2 cups of the broth to a simmer. Add the carrot slices and return to a simmer, then cover and cook over medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Add the asparagus spear pieces and the squash pieces to the soup and continue to simmer, uncovered, for 1 minute. Add the asparagus tips and continue to cook until the vegetables are done to your preference, about 2 or 3 minutes. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon. Return the vegetables’ cooking broth to the rest of the soup.

6

Before serving, bring the soup to a simmer. Add the cooked vegetables and heat through. Add the chopped dill and cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning if desired. This makes a scant 2 1/2 quarts of soup.

7

To serve, put 2 or 3 matzo balls in each soup bowl using a slotted spoon, and ladle hot soup over them. Add some vegetables and a few chicken strips to each bowl. Serve with the zehug in a small bowl.

It is best to make the soup a day or two ahead and to refrigerate it, so that skimming the fat is easier. The soup is served with herb-flecked kneidelach (matzo balls) and zehug (a chile-garlic relish).