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Harisa (Tunisian Spicy Chile Paste)

Time 1 hour 15 minutes
Yields Makes 1 cup
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Harisa is the most important condiment in Tunisian cooking, used in nearly everything. This version, based on a Berber-style harisa I had on the island of Djerba in southern Tunisia. It was formulated with the help of Tunisian chef Moncef Meddeb; Tunisian food expert Mohammed Kouki; and cookbook authors Paula Wolfert, Martha Rose Shulman, Nancy Harmon Jenkins and Deborah Madison.

From the story: North African fire

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1

Soak chiles in tepid water to cover until softened, about 1 hour. Drain and remove stems and seeds. Puree in blender or food processor with garlic, water and 2 tablespoons olive oil until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides.

2

Transfer mixture to small bowl and stir in caraway, coriander and salt. Store in jar, covering surface of paste with layer of olive oil. Whenever paste is used, you must always top off with olive oil, making sure no paste is exposed to air; otherwise it will spoil.

Variations:
Very hot harisa: use 4 ounces dried guajillo chiles and 1 ounce dried chiles de arbol.

Salsa al-harisa: (called harisa sauce), which is used as an accompaniment to grilled meats, stir together 2 teaspoons harisa, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves.
Wright is a Santa Monica cookbook author. His book, “A Mediterranean Feast” (William Morrow, $35), was named the James Beard/ KitchenAid Cookbook of the Year 2000 and also won the Beard Award for the Best Writing on Food 2000.